Boutique hotel by the beach
Those childhood trips to the beach, building sandcastles with elaborate moats, burying dad up to his neck – a secure, sandy prison from which he could shake himself free in two seconds flat – and wandering over seaweed-covered rocks to see what tiny delights hid in shallow pools.
As an adult, beaches take on a different meaning, whether it's romantic strolls hand in hand along the waterline or furnishing our children with happy memories of their own.
Living in the West Country, you're never far from the water. What the region has to offer is enormous variety, from the family resorts such as Dawlish to the party lifestyle of Newquay. There are beaches for surfing, sailing and swimming and coastal walks to take in incredible views or fascinating wildlife.
In more recent years, there have been new guys on the block: the luxury hotels offering a five-star retreat from the cares of the world, in spectacular locations with spa facilities.
The latest addition has certainly made a big impression already. After a low-key opening at Easter, the Cary Arms at Babbacombe is already the recipient of five AA stars and five Visit Britain stars. Earlier this month it was named as one of the Times' Top 10 British Beach Hotels.
Before you step through the door, it's easy to see why The Cary Arms is a success: location, location, location.
Follow a very steep, winding road from the clifftop at Babbacombe near Torquay and you emerge for a view with an absolute 'wow' factor. This is the English Riviera, but could easily pass for its French or Italian cousin.
There's nothing between you and the spectacular bay. The tiny, quiet beach to the left and wooded cliffs to the right cocoon the hotel, offering privacy and peace in abundance.
The five AA stars may have been quick to arrive, but there can't have been any doubt about whether they should be given or not. What was once a pretty pub by the water's edge has been transformed, at great expense, into a beautiful boutique hotel which hasn't forgotten its roots. You can either stay in one of the beautiful rooms or just pop by for lunch at the Inn On the Beach.
This is a quality project undertaken by Lana, the wife of Peter de Savary. She has plenty of experience in the leisure industry; she helped her husband create the exclusive Carnegie Club at Skibo Castle in the Scottish Highlands, Bovey Castle on Dartmoor and resorts in South Carolina, Rhode Island and the Bahamas.
This is an intimate and delightful environment, with immaculate attention to detail. Residents can enjoy private lounges and terraces, and our room had a beautiful balcony area with a view straight out to sea and a table and chairs from which to admire the view.
Muted colours and a seaside theme help you relax from the moment of arrival. The rooms are very well equipped – with flatscreen TVs and luxury bathrooms (ours had an enamel rolltop bath in front of a bay window with unobscured sea views).
It's also the little touches that make a difference, such as the decanter of sloe gin for a late nightcap underneath the stars or the stick of Cary Arms rock on your pillow.
With its subdued decor and only the sound of the sea to be heard from your bedroom window, this is a place destined for luxurious relaxation.
The Cary Arms includes the Spa Room, offering total relaxation and indulgence. They use Temple Spa products, normally only available in Harrods and Selfridges, providing 'a superabundance of pure botanicals and extracts inspired by healthy Mediterranean nutrition'. Never mind what it says on the bottle; the fact that I was nearly drifting off to sleep after a half-hour massage must say something for their relaxing properties.
A weekend treat is, of course, also about the food. The beautifully turned-out Cary Arms doesn't disappoint on that front either. We ate in the hotel's new 'toy' – a pod perched on the terrace. This perspex and metal globe protects you from the elements, while offering you the view on a plate: and it's been licensed for marriages, too, if you fancy tying the knot there.
We opted for nothing more complicated than dinner. Chef Denise Tarriela knows a good thing when she sees it and has developed great relationships already with local producers and suppliers. Beef and Otter Pie is not something to have otter- lovers shaking with rage but a tender pie of beef and Otter Ale, from one of the pub's local suppliers, the Otter Brewery.
The menu changes daily but expect superb Devon beef, Lyme Bay lobster and line-caught seafood. On the pub terraces you have the added advantage of local sausages grilled on the barbecue or pizzas cooked to order in the outdoor oven.
Catching the hottest weekend of the year so far, it was late before we toddled off to bed, sleeping soundly with the sea lapping in the background.
Breakfast was taken outdoors on the terrace – all fresh, local produce, perfectly cooked and, again, the widescreen view to enjoy.
On visiting the area, Queen Victoria wrote: "It's a beautiful spot... red cliffs and rocks with wooded hills like Italy and reminding one of a ballet or plays where nymphs appear – such rocks and grottoes, with the deepest sea on which there was no ripple."
I couldn't disagree with that – except for the absence of nymphs.
The Cary Arms is a charming and wonderful place to relax which has everything you could hope for beside the seaside: luxury accommodation, delicious food, lovely spa facilities, the chance to moor your yacht nearby and friendly, charming staff. If you're little, you get a bucket and spade when you arrive. If you're a four-legged resident you get your own dog basket and food bowl.
Who needs nymphs?
